Experiments in Durian - Durian Tiramisu or Durian-Misu

Upon receiving an invitation to attend one of her sister's fabulous food extravaganzas from a buddy, I decided to experiment, seeing as it is durian season here in Malaysia, with a durian dessert.

My last attempt at a durian dessert was my Durian Pie and that went down generally quite well with friends who were into dessert + durian. So this time I was inspired to make a Durian Tiramisu (or Durian-Misu)

I am not by any means the first person to think this is a great concept (google Durian Tiramisu and you'll find someone has beat me to the idea, in the form of a Durian Tiramisu Cake). That being said, I am a purist when it comes to certain things (like NOT using gelatin) and at the same time, I have a Nigella-like aversion to adding extra work to my dessert efforts. Perhaps it's this that is the inspiration behind some of my dessert experiments.

The Durian Tiramisu took me about 1 hour to make although I was being very leisurely about it. It has no booze, because I adhere to that time-tested superstition that Durian and Alcohol do not mix (and I haven't found something that goes with it yet). I'm planning to try out a different incarnation of this particular recipe this weekend so it might be Version 2's recipe here next if that works out . In the meantime, my guinea pigs responded brilliantly to this so I think this one's a keeper. I don't usually put pictures on my blog but this one deserved it (if only because it's a personal creation) and to preserve the recipe idea for posterity. Thanks to my pal Honey for the pictures, taken with her amazingly brilliant camera.

As with all things Durian, it's never obvious it's durian something unless you smell it. Alas, they haven't come up with a way for you to smell the pictures, as well as see them. But trust me - this has durian in it!






The recipe I culled from reading various Internet sources on the origins of tiramisu and then modified accordingly.

Recipe:

4 egg yolks
1/2 cup caster sugar
8-12 durian seeds
500 gm Mascapone Cheese
224ml liquid whipping cream

1 1/2 - 2 cups of cold milk
A carton of sponge fingers (chose the one with packs of 42- 48)
2 bars of 100gm 70% cocoa dark chocolate (Frei or Lindt is good)

Part 1: Prepare the chocolate milk.

You could use normal chocolate milk but we all know there's no chocolate in that. This has a much better flavour.

1. Break up 50gm of the chocolate into a heat-proof bowl and melt either in a microwave or over a pot of gently bubbling hot water.

2. Add the milk and whisk. Set Aside.

Part 2: Make Zabaglione

1. Remove seeds from durian. Mash the flesh with a fork, and then pass the mashed durian flesh through a fine sieve using the back of the spoon. You should end up with about 1/2 a liquid cup of pure durian puree.

2. Place egg yolks together with caster sugar into a heat-proof bowl and onto a bain-marie (that's a pot of gently boiling water). Whisk until you have a smooth, silky custard, known as zabaglione (Italian), or Sabayon (French) or custard to the rest of us. The custard should be heated through to avoid salmonella risk)and hot when you taste it. You shouldn't taste any of the sugar granules or a very raw, eggy taste when you test-taste the zabaglione. If you still can taste the sugar granules, continue whisking till it is smooth. Do not over-beat or let it boil - if it curdles, it's game over. Ideally it should be smooth and silky, and drip thickly off the whisk. Approximate time: anywhere between 10-15 minutes.

3.Put the room-temperature mascapone cheese into a large bowl. Pour the whipping cream into another bowl.

4. Pour the zabaglione over the mascapone cheese and then stir it together with a spatula. It might get a bit claggy or clumpy at this point but don't panic.

5. Whip the cream. Fold the whipped cream into your zabaglione-mascapone mixture. This should smooth out the custard.

6. Add the durian puree. It is best to add the puree in installments of 1/3 so that you don't create an overwhelmingly strong custard. Add 1/3, stir to combine and then taste. And then add another 1/3, stir and taste again. Depending on your audience, you may want to stop at 2/3 or go all the whole hog. I used all the durian puree (about 1/2 cup) because cold desserts often lose a bit of their flavour after being chilled. But to each to his own. This is durian. But you don't want to have too much.

Don't worry if the custard seems a little watery at this point. It will thicken up.

Part 3: Assemble

You need a glass/oven-proof dish that is about 6-7cm in height, and about 45 cm in length. Shallow dishes usually do better for this dessert than a deep one.

1. Dip the sponge fingers in the chocolate milk and lay onto the base of the dish. Pour 1/2 the durian zabaglione-mascapone mix using a ladle over the sponge fingers. Spread evenly with a spatula.

2. Layer another round of sponge fingers soaked in chocolate milk. Pour the rest of the durian zabaglione-mascapone mix. Make sure the sponge fingers are covered in the mixture.

3. Place it in the freezer for 2-3 hours if in a rush. Otherwise, chill overnight in the fridge.

Before serving, grate the remaining 150gm of chocolate finely. Sprinkle in a thick layer over the top. Serve within 10 minutes of removing from the fridge or 25 minutes if from freezer.

Pointers and Notes

Durian
Avoid using durian that is frozen as this tends to cause it to weep or release liquids. If you are using frozen durian, mash it, and then leave it to stand so that the liquids come out, and then strain off the liquids before using it. I use 1 day old durian that has been left in a tupperware in the fridge to firm up. This makes removing the flesh a lot easier.

I am against the use of store-made available around the year durian puree. Period. Fresh or nothing.

Use a genetically modified variant like D24, and go for one with a sweet flavour. Kampung Durian is not a good choice as the flavour tends to be uneven. How much you need varies because of the size of the seeds but look to get about 8-12 seeds. (anywhere between RM15-25).

Chocolate
For ease of grating, have the chocolate in a freezer before you start grating. Use the smallest section of the grater for better texture. I don't use cocoa powder because I find it creates a choking sensation when you accidentally 'inhale' the powder whilst eating the dessert.

Chocolate should be 70% cocoa - Frei or Lindt is best. Do not use cooking chocolate.

If chilling this dessert overnight, make sure to cover it tightly with clingfilm to avoid both the durian smell getting into other items in the fridge like milk and yoghurt that are highly sensitive to strong smells, and vice versa.

Where's the Beef, Carl?

What is it with Carl's Jnr and their beef supply seriously?

I've been to the place TWICE in the last two weeks and have walked up to the counter only to be told that they do not have any beef and it's only chicken burgers. Seriously, who the hell eats a CHICKEN Famous Star burger? Get real.

How on earth can you run a burger business and not have beef? How can a company screw up their beef supply chain to this extent that they don't get a regular beef delivery? Do I have to resort to doing what these three old dears are doing in order to get a beef burger at Carl's Jnr?



Of late, I have also noticed the quality and standard of their french fries has seriously dropped. The last time I ate at Carls Jnr MidValley, the fries were soggy and tasted like they had sat on the countertop for far too long. And don't get me started on how there don't seem to be enough staff and so the tabletops are always dirty. If I'm paying 10 bucks for my burger, I expect someone to frickin wipe the tabletops and clear the garbage.

In shocking contrast, I had a burger at McDonalds last week over lunch and the fries were crisp and the patty was hot and actually didn't taste like cardboard (which it did the last last last time I ate at McDonalds in SS2).

And I've got to say, the burgers at Wendy's are actually pretty good.

Where's the Beef, Carl?

The Doughnut Lands - RM2.50 for Krispy Kreme...

...will it prove too steep for the average Malaysian pocket?

And is this going to be enough of a profit margin at RM2.50 per doughnut?

How long will the queues last? Is there room for a premium doughnut player in town?

My spies inform me that the line at the inaugural Krispy Kreme store in Berjaya Times Square was as long as a snake today, all the way out to the entrance of the mall, say my spies.

However, it wasn't that long that they couldn't get a box of the doughnuts themselves.

Price point: RM2.50 per doughnut for the plain original glazed and RM2.80 for the more exotic variants with topics and the sort.

Having sampled the plain original glazed version from the box of six I received, I am pleased to say that it holds up muster to the ones I ate in HK with no variation or deviation in flavour or quality. But, as the Krispy Kreme head honchos were probably at the opening, QC is unlikely to be an issue. (we need to check back in on this in about 3-4 months because that's how long it took Big Apple to take a plunge). And I maintain the superiority of the Krispy Kreme Original Glazed Doughnut over Big Apple any day. (see my story 'Much Ado about Doh' which compares Krispy Kreme against Big Apple against J Co.)

A biggest test for Krispy Kreme is probably going to be the MidValley store, which will open to considerable competition from Big Apple and Dunkin Doughnut. The inaugural store in Berjaya Times Square is home territory for the KK franchisor in Malaysia, which is the Berjaya Group (also the franchisor for Wendy's, Starbucks, Kenny Rogers and Papa John's Pizza).

I will be posting a list of my favourite doughnuts in due course.

Website: www.krispykreme.com.my

The Original Glazed Doughnut - note how the glaze is almost translucent and slightly matte. And the glaze *scrunches* when you bite into it.

Four In the box - the topped one is one of my favourites: New York Cheesecake!

The original glazed, from another perspective. The scrunching effect of the sugar (indication of the quality and smoothness of the glaze) can be seen here.

Krispy Kreme KL - RM3.50?

I've got bets going with my mom on how much a doughnut will cost at Krispy Kreme (those thinking about getting in line to be the first person, erm, sorry, my spies tell me there's already someone camped out there today with a sleeping bag).

Price point sensitivity is definitely an issue here in Malaysia, where disposable incomes are not high and discretionary spending amongst the middle class is definitely going to decline in light of the tightening economic situation. If the doughnuts are priced too high, they're not going to get the J Co and Big Apple crowds and their expansion plans may be slowed down (the franchisor is required by the franchise agreement to open a certain number of stores within 5 years).

In Hong Kong, Krispy Kreme doughnuts sold for HKD10 per doughnut and HKD100 per box of 12 (if memory serves me). That makes it RM5 per doughnut and RM50 per box. Big Apple charges RM22 per box of 12. It's been so long since I last went to Dunkin Doughnuts I have no idea what their product costs.

Now, realistically, the price point sensitivity requires the product to be priced competitively but the brand could command a premium. My original price estimate was RM2.50 until my mother pointed out that half the buns in Breadtalk are anywhere between RM2-2.50. She thinks RM3.50.

Well, in about 12 hours, we'll find out.

Chicken Ham and the Cajun Club Sandwich at Chilli's

So, I'm celebrating the end of 14 days of living with the Diet Demon in the name of compensating for my indulgences over Chinese New Year...English New Year...erm, well every weekend spent at Alexis eating brunch since the start of 2009...

And for my off day, I decide I really want to scarf my face on fried carbs like Chilli's Fries (still the best fries around, aside from the hand-cut ones at places like Magnificent Fish and Chips), guzzle their Margaritas...

...and after dawdling over Triple Play vs Chicken Crispers, I decided I wanted something truly evil: like grilled chicken breast with two types of cheese, sandwiched between three slices of WHITE bread that had been slathered in garlic butter (maybe garlic margarine - clog my arteries baby) and mayo, then toasted. With some token lettuce to make us all feel better. The Cajun Chicken Club Sandwich for the uninitiated. (tsk).

Now, I've had this sandwich before at one of my infamous 'last supper' rituals (embarked upon usually before 14 interminable days of being waistline disciplined) and it was fab. I loved it. So imagine my hideous surprise when I chomp down on the sandwich and...

UGH. It was cold in the center. I looked at the sandwich. In the middle portion (it's a club sandwich = three layers), there was something pale and pink that looked suspiciously like...chicken ham.

Now, before I *confront* management, I like to make sure I'm right. The customer may be always right, but it's best to definitely be right. So I got my booth buddy to snag the menu as I mumbled about something not being right with my sandwich. And then I scrutnised the picture (looks like chicken) but more importantly, THE DESCRIPTION of the Cajun Club Sandwich.

Indeed, the words "grilled chicken breast" were in the description.

Waiter was summoned and proved no help. Manager was called over. Swiftly to his credit he appeared.

Now, his reasoning for the chicken ham was in my view quite incredulous although not entirely unbelievable. And for the record I'm not saying I don't believe him. I'm saying the reason it incredulous.

He told me chicken ham was substituted because customers complained that when the sandwich contained real chicken meat (as opposed to god knows what parts of the chicken that go into chicken ham), not every bite had chicken. Grilled chicken apparently has a habit of not aligning perfectly within the sandwich to ensure that every bite of the sandwich produces a mouthful of bread, shredded lettuce, chicken, cheese x 2 and mayo. By substituting chicken ham, this ensured that the customers who bitched about not having chicken in every mouthful, GOT their chicken in every mouthful.

Albeit said customers were obviously unaware that what they were getting was ANYTHING but chicken. (come on, chicken ham?).

Completely to the credit of the manager at Chilli's that night at BSC, he immediately made me another sandwich, with real grilled chicken breast, which he said was do-able on request of the customer. He did however to my shock say that the customers preferred the chicken ham version. (why do I get the feeling the next time I go, it will say chicken ham?). I hope it won't be chicken ham because that would just be mind-bogglingly daft to substitute processed meat just so that a few dimwits can convince themselves they are getting their money's worth. Btw, chicken ham costs LESS than real chicken breast so in case any of my readers happen to be in the 'incredulous' grouping who believe chicken ham and chicken breast is the same...

Note: Service at Chilli's BSC is always impeccable with MidValley running a close second. I officially condemn the outlet at Bandar Utama, having had one too many watery margaritas and horrible Crispy Chicken Salads more times than I can count.

Breakfast of Queens: A Haiku

A Triple O breakfast burger.
Fries. Chocolate milkshake.
Oh Heaven.

DROOLWORTHY

A great story on America's Best Doughnuts at Forbes Traveller

If the article seems too long, just skip straight to the slide show.

Moments like this make...dieting bearable.